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Field guide

Levelling a cabinet run on a deck that is not flat

Short answer

Every module stands on levelling castors. Level the run with the adjusters before bolting the modules together, work from the highest point of the deck, and accept that castors take up millimetres rather than gradients.

An outdoor cabinet run being levelled on its castors with a spirit level across the counter line
Render — a BOGEQI order visualisation, not a photograph of a finished site

Work from the high point

Find the highest point of the deck, set the first module there and level it. Every other module is adjusted up or down relative to it.

If you start anywhere else, you will run out of adjuster travel at the high end and have to lift the whole run.

Level, then bolt

Level each module individually, then bolt them together, then check the line again. Bolting can pull a module out of level, and a run bolted first is much harder to correct.

Bolt through the side panels, not the front. Nothing structural is carried by a door.

What castors can and cannot do

They take up a few millimetres of unevenness across a run, which is what a deck actually gives you. They do not fix a slope.

More than about 2% fall and the run will visibly step, and no amount of adjustment will hide it. Build a base instead.

When to stop levelling and build a base

On gravel, which will settle differently under each module. On a deck with flexible boards, where the module sinks and the joint opens. On any surface with a slope.

A treated timber base or a paved kerb takes an afternoon and solves the problem permanently. Fighting it with castor adjustment costs more in time and never quite works.

The order that avoids a visible step

  1. Bolt the run together first

    Levelling module by module and then bolting produces a step at every joint. The run is levelled as one object.

  2. Level the front line, then the back

    A spirit level along the front face sets the line a visitor sees. The back only has to stop the run rocking.

  3. Adjust at the castor, not with packers

    Stainless packers under a castor trap water. The castor thread has 30 mm of adjustment, which is enough on any sensible slab.

  4. Brake all four castors at the end

    Two braked castors is a run that pivots. All four is a run that stays where it was levelled.

  5. Set the counter last

    The top is what shows any error in the frame. Setting it after the run is level and braked is the difference between a straight joint and a shim.

Questions we get about this

Do the castors lock?

Yes, every castor has a brake. Lock all four before opening a lid or using the counter — this matters most on the grill module.

Do I need to fix the run to the wall?

No, and we would rather you did not. The modules bolt to each other and stand on their own castors. Fixing to a wall transfers wall movement into the cabinet line.

How many people to assemble a run?

Two. The modules are manageable but awkward, and the counter needs two to set down without twisting it.

Before you order anything

Send the grill model and the run length. You get the aperture, the module list and one itemised price back in writing — freight shown separately, valid 15 days.

Start an enquiry

Related

Reference

The levels you are levelling to

A run is levelled at the castors, and only within the range they allow. Everything above that is fixed.

Finished height
900 mm
Body height
790 mm
Castor and plinth
90 mm
Module depth
656 mm