Built-in gas
The most common fit. Drop-in body, opening cut to the drawing, vented front panel below the firebox.
Almost every outdoor kitchen fails at the same point: somebody sells you a hole of a standard size and hopes your grill drops into it. We do it the other way. You tell us the grill, the opening and the gas entry are made to it, and the fascia is vented so the firebox can breathe.
One question is enough to start
Type the make and the model as they appear on the badge or in the manual — that is enough. We look up the maker's cut-out drawing ourselves. No photos needed at this step. If you have not chosen yet, type the two or three you are choosing between and we compare them.
Two ways to do this
Both are normal. What changes is who owns the warranty on the grill, and how much detail we need from you up front.
Route 01 · your grill
This is the route most buyers take, and the one we would choose ourselves.
Route 02 · sourced
The grill is quoted as a separate line either way. We prefer that you can see what it costs.
How the opening is actually made
These come from things that fail in the field. They are the reason this page exists instead of a dropdown of standard sizes.
A grill is usually 30–60 mm bigger outside than its cut-out. If we build to the outside size, the grill falls through. Send the cut-out page of the spec sheet — that single number is the whole job.
Slots are machined into the front panel at the factory. A sealed box overheats the cabinet, starves the burners and makes the drawers next to the grill unpleasant to open. This is not an optional extra.
HW-06 is the standard bay: 800 mm wide, 656 mm deep, same as everything else. HW-03 is the wide bay at 1182 mm wide and 643 mm deep. The 13 mm comes off the front, so the appliance fascia and the lid hinge finish flush with the modules either side rather than standing proud. On a plinth or a paved base, set the base out at 656 and let HW-03 stop 13 mm back.
Left or right, and whether the line comes from below or through the back. It is a small decision with an expensive remedy — nobody wants to cut a second hole in a finished cabinet on site.
Fit by grill type
Most outdoor grills fall into four families. Each one imposes a different requirement on the cabinet.
| Grill type | What it needs from the cabinet | Module width | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Built-in gas grill | Cut-out per the maker's drawing, vented fascia, gas entry on the chosen side | 800 (HW-06) / 1182 (HW-03) | Some models need a heat shield between grill and the next cabinet |
| Kamado / ceramic egg | A cradle or a reinforced opening; the body is heavy and sits high | 800 (HW-06) | Lid opens upward and back — overhead clearance is the binding constraint |
| Side burner | Drop-in burner opening in its own module, on its own gas tee | 800 (HW-04 or HW-06) | Keep the burner lid clear of the grill hood; the gas line needs a tee |
| Cart grill, no cut-out | No opening at all — the run stops and the cart sits in the gap | reserve 1182 mm at the end | Check the cart height so the grill top ends up near worktop level |
The most common fit. Drop-in body, opening cut to the drawing, vented front panel below the firebox.
Heavy, high, and it opens straight up. The cabinet needs a cradle and a clear line above it — often the reason a run gets rearranged.
Works, but the fridge module wants air. We will normally keep one module between them, or specify extra venting.
What to send
If you have only one of these, send it. A rating-plate photo gets us most of the way, and we will ask for the rest rather than guess.
We confirm the opening in writing before production starts. Nothing gets cut on an assumption.
FAQ
No. The opening is cut from dimensions, not from a catalogue. If you can measure the cut-out — or measure the body at the point it needs to drop in — we can work from that. The only real risk is a grill with a non-standard flange, and a photo of the underside settles it.
Technically yes, and it is cheaper up front. But an on-site cut leaves a raw edge unless it is folded and sealed properly, and that edge is exactly where water starts. We would only recommend it when the grill is genuinely undecided at order time.
If the new grill's cut-out is smaller, an adapter frame closes the gap and is a simple fix. If it is bigger, the opening cannot grow — the panel would lose its edge and its structure. This is why we ask twice before cutting.
They are on the front fascia below the grill body, angled downward, and the grill above them shields them. Water on a vertical face drains off rather than entering. What they do let in is air, which a firebox needs.
Where a grill's own installation instructions require one, yes — and we follow the grill maker's requirement rather than our own opinion. Tell us the model and we will quote any shield that model needs.
Yes, and it is a common combination. The kamado wants a cradle and clear height above it; the gas grill wants a vented fascia and a gas entry. They take different modules, so the run needs two appliance bays — a HW-06 at 800 mm for one and either a second HW-06 or a HW-03 at 1182 mm for the other, depending on the grill footprint.
Nine guides on this exact problem
Page last updated · Reviewed by the BOGEQI technical team, Foshan Bogeqi Cabinetry Co., Ltd.
One reply, with numbers, not a brochure.