Outdoor cabinet installation: is it hard? No.
The honest answer is that you are not building a kitchen — you are placing finished boxes, bolting them together and levelling them. What you are not doing is cutting, joining, or making a carcass square.
Straight up
Nobody from our side travels to fit it
We supply, you install — or the person you pay locally does. That is not a gap in the service, it is the arrangement: the cabinets ship worldwide and the freight alone is priced per destination. Flying a fitter across the world would cost more than the run itself, and it is not something we offer.
So the whole job is designed around being done by somebody who has not done it before. Every module leaves the factory assembled, on its own castors, with its doors already hung and its joints already drilled. What is left is placing, bolting, levelling and setting the top. Nothing on site gets cut, and nobody has to make a carcass square.
Two people for the cabinets, three if the counter is stone. A licensed gas fitter for the grill connection, wherever your regulations require one.
The sequence
Six stages, in this order
Order matters more than speed. Doing step four before step three is what produces a run with a visible step in the counter.
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Unpack and inspect before you position anything
Check every module against the packing list and photograph any transit damage before you move it. Once a cabinet is at the back of a run, proving the damage was not yours becomes an argument. Two minutes here saves the insurance claim.
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Set out the run on the ground with a chalk line or a batten
Mark the front face line, not the back. Modules are 656 mm deep and the front is what people see. If the wall is not straight — and it will not be — let the gap vary at the back rather than at the front.
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Roll the modules in and check the order twice
Sink near the water, grill where the lid clears overhead, gas cabinet where the cylinder can be reached and the line enters from the side you chose. Roll them in dry, then walk the run before bolting.
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Bolt the modules to each other, hand-tight first
Two bolts per joint through the side panels. Do them all hand-tight, then go back and torque in sequence — tightening the first joint fully before the last one is aligned is what pulls a run out of line.
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Level on the castors across the whole run, not per cabinet
Put a long spirit level or a straightedge across three or four modules at once. Levelling one cabinet perfectly and then the next one perfectly still leaves a step between them. This is the step people rush and the one you will notice every day.
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Set the counter, then the sink and grill, then the gas
Counter drops on and fixes from inside. Sink and grill go into factory-cut openings with their own sealant. Gas connects to the tail you specified — by a licensed fitter, tested and certified before first use.
All six photographs are our own renders of delivered orders. They show the state each stage ends in, not our staff on site — we do not send fitters, as explained above.
The one step that decides everything
Level across the run, not within a cabinet
Every module has four adjustable castors. It is tempting to level each one individually and move on. Do not. What matters is the straightedge across three or four modules at once, because the counter is one continuous piece and it will show every millimetre of step between modules.
On a timber deck, expect seasonal movement. A run set dead level in a dry month can sit differently after a wet one — which is why we level on adjustable castors rather than building a fixed plinth.
- ToleranceGet the run within 2 mm over 3 m. That is achievable with castors and a straightedge, and it is tight enough that a stone top will not rock.
- Stone tops0 mm of rock. Stone does not bend. If your run cannot be brought within 1 mm over its length, talk to us before ordering stone and consider stainless instead.
- AnchoringNot needed for structure. Recommended on an exposed or elevated site for wind, and we will ask about your location when quoting.
The honest boundary
What you should not do yourself
We would rather lose a bit of the job than have somebody connect a gas line on a hunch. This is where our part ends and a trade's begins.
You can do this
Cabinet and counter work
- Positioning, bolting and levelling the run
- Fitting end panels and scribing to a wall
- Setting a stainless counter and sealing the joint
- Dropping in a sink and connecting the waste to an existing trap
- Fitting a grill into the factory-cut opening
Use a licensed trade
Gas and electrical
- Any gas connection, including a bayonet or a regulator change
- Pressure testing and certification before first use
- Any 230/240 V or 110 V connection — fridge, lights, rotisserie motor
- Running a new circuit or an outdoor-rated socket
- Anything your local authority requires a certificate for
Documents
What ships with the order
Step sequence, level tolerances, tool list Request PDF Dimension sheet — 12 modules
The table your builder can price from Open DWG Elevation drawing set
For fabrication and for the stonemason Request PDF Test report summary — coating
1500 h salt spray and 1500 h weathering, scope stated Open
FAQ
Installation questions
Do you send someone to install it?
No — we supply only. The cabinets ship worldwide and the fitting is done by you, or by somebody you arrange locally. Freight is priced per destination and a fitter travelling with the order would cost more than the run itself.
The reason this works is that nothing gets made on site. Modules arrive assembled, on castors, with doors hung and joints pre-drilled. Placing, bolting and levelling is within reach of anyone comfortable with a spanner, and the printed manual ships with every order.
Do I need a builder?
For the cabinets, no. For the base, yes if you need a paved pad or a level slab — the cabinets stand on their own castors but they do want something solid and roughly level under them. Most timber decks are fine as they are.
What if my deck slopes for drainage?
Normal, and the castors take it up. A typical 1:80 fall over 3 m is about 37 mm, which is within the levelling range. What it does mean is that the counter ends up level while the deck does not — so if you are setting a stone top against a fixed height elsewhere, check both numbers.
Can the cabinets sit in the rain all year?
The body is designed for it. What we would not do is leave a run permanently in standing water — drainage matters more than rain. On a coastal site, specify stainless castors; standard castors are the first component to fail in salt air, and we will flag it at quotation.
How heavy is a module?
Heavy enough that two people moving a three-module run together is the right call, but light enough that one person can move a single module on its castors. A stone counter is the part that genuinely needs three people.
What if something does not line up when it arrives?
It should not — every order is trial-assembled in the factory before packing, which is how we rule out issues at our end. If something still does not fit, photograph it and we will ship a corrected part rather than ask you to make it work.
That is the same principle as transit damage: replace first, discuss later.
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Related pages
Page last updated · Reviewed by the BOGEQI technical team, Foshan Bogeqi Cabinetry Co., Ltd.
Reference
The installation dimensions
Four steps, four numbers. Nothing below the castor is adjustable once the run is bolted together.